{"id":1558,"date":"2016-05-09T22:30:51","date_gmt":"2016-05-09T21:30:51","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/mic1024.wordpress.com\/?p=1558"},"modified":"2016-05-09T22:30:51","modified_gmt":"2016-05-09T21:30:51","slug":"no-room-for-mistakes","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/samsel.org\/index.php\/2016\/05\/09\/no-room-for-mistakes\/","title":{"rendered":"No room for mistakes"},"content":{"rendered":"

… when you want to lead GARGOYLE GROOVE DIRECT<\/strong> (*** 16m E1\u00a05b). Some say the Direct finish is better and actual easier than the classic (HVS) right hand side mantle.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Yesterday seen my very first attempt on it.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n
<\/a><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
From climbing random<\/a><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n

For now, the route beat me, but I’l be back. One day. We did top rope it later afternoon that day,\u00a0it provides very important piece of data – got to train more… \ud83d\ude09<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Instead I did rather wet\u00a0FIFTH AVENUE<\/strong> * 16m HS 4b. I find the small ledges by the top very pleasant, the overhang finish, not so much \ud83d\ude09<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n
<\/a><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
From climbing random<\/a><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n

 <\/p>\n

The highlight of the day however was the fact that Andrew decide to take hist first steps in leading. He started where most of us do – PARADISE LOST *** 17m VD.<\/strong><\/p>\n

Unfortunately I don’t think anyone taken photos of that, being busy watching Monika top roping that\u00a0THE GREEN FOOL<\/strong> *** 16m E5 6b (also no photographic evidence of her getting to the top). It wasn’t easy. I don’t know how people lead it…<\/p>\n

Andrew’s first lead came only \u00a0a week after he seconded me on these 2 Sundays ago:<\/p>\n

D ROUTE<\/strong> *** 24m S 4a
\nFRAGILE<\/strong> 17m HS 4b,
\nMOONLIGHTER<\/strong> 20m VS 4b (on sight)
\nMAHJONGG<\/strong> ** 12m VS 4c
\nLEVITATION<\/strong> * 14m HS 4b<\/p>\n

And it was his maybe 5th time in the quarry. Keep going strong Andrew!<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Looking down the Moonlighther – Not much protection there…<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n
<\/a><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
From climbing random<\/a><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n

Appeal here: next time I ‘ll decide to lead that – remind me not to..<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

… when you want to lead GARGOYLE GROOVE DIRECT (*** 16m E1\u00a05b). Some say the Direct finish is better and actual easier than the classic (HVS) right hand side mantle.   Yesterday seen my very first attempt on it. From climbing random For now, the route beat me, but I’l be back. One day. We […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":1625,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[32],"tags":[55,59,105],"class_list":["post-1558","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-uncategorized","tag-climbing","tag-dalkey","tag-trad"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/samsel.org\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1558","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/samsel.org\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/samsel.org\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/samsel.org\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/samsel.org\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=1558"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/samsel.org\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1558\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/samsel.org\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/1625"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/samsel.org\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=1558"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/samsel.org\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=1558"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/samsel.org\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=1558"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}