{"id":590,"date":"2016-03-11T05:34:49","date_gmt":"2016-03-11T05:34:49","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/mic1024.wordpress.com\/?p=590"},"modified":"2016-03-11T05:34:49","modified_gmt":"2016-03-11T05:34:49","slug":"canada-day6-weathering-heights-wi4","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/samsel.org\/index.php\/2016\/03\/11\/canada-day6-weathering-heights-wi4\/","title":{"rendered":"Canada \u2013 Day6 \u2013 Weathering Heights WI4"},"content":{"rendered":"

They say not to step into the same river twice – I mostly agree – \u00a0unless it’s a\u00a0Ghost River Wilderness Area<\/a>.
\nWe’ve revisited the place after scouting it yesterday – this time fully geared up<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n
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with intentions to either climb\u00a0Wicked Wanda WI4+<\/a>\u00a0 (as seen from the car yesterday, around 40min walk from the car) or a combo of\u00a0Weathering Heights, III, WI 4<\/a>\u00a0and\u00a0Anorexia Nervosa, III, WI 4R<\/a>\u00a0which are located very close to each other – but around 1h hike from the car – and other direction than Wicked Wanda.<\/p>\n

We’ve decided to go for\u00a0the combo. After a 1h 20 mins walk – which is nothing like we gotten used to (trail is first 1km, then its just hiking up dry river bed)<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n
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\"strava-weathering\"<\/a><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Unfortunately upon arriving to the location we’ve learned that Anorexia wasn’t fully formed and it wasn’t really safe to climb it (the bottom part was missing).<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n
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We’ve focused our efforts on Weathering Heights:<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n
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The route itself looks different from what we’ve seen in description – it’s actually 3 pitches:
\n1st pitch – 35m with bolted belay to the right – lead today by Del.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n
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2nd pitch – long 55m with a tree belay to the left – lead by Padriag – he actually climbed it twice today – but more about it later \ud83d\ude09<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n
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3rd pitch – which not many people do as it’s an easy 15m to another tree belay.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n
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Conditions today weren’t great – it was snowing for most of the day – making climbing more challenging –<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n
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– but also more rewarding once we topped it out!<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n
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There were 2 real options to abseil –
\na) from the tree anchor of the top pitch – with a risk of not reaching the bolted anchors of pitch 1<\/p>\n

b) from the tree anchor of the 2nd pitch – but with guaranteed access to the bolts on 2x60m ropes.<\/p>\n

We’ve opted on the option b) – PG went first, followed by Del – I went last. We’ve quickly learned that in order to go down that way the rope goes over sharp rock – not ideal, but we just need to be careful. There was also the risk of rope jamming on the pull – and that’s what happened…. pulling yellow, pulling pink, it didn’t go. Someone had to climb the pitch again (nearly 60m!) and investigate.
\nPadriag quickly volunteered, we’ve setup a semi-self arresting system, that would provide some safety and off he went again.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n
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After good 40mins he was back – it turned out that ropes got to the rock groove, and were blocking each other – kind of like in a reverso belay.
\nHe told us that to fix the situation he secured himself with a screw, freed the ropes, built a v-thread, abseiled on it to us – and we’ve abseiled to the bottom.
\nGood and safe solution to a not that uncommon situation.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n
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It was 4.30 pm by the time we got down to the bottom of the climb – so we had to go back to the car, in order to avoid driving in the dark through non-existed road in the middle of nowhere.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n
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2h later we were back in The Hostel Bear<\/a>, Canmore – our home for these 2 weeks.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

They say not to step into the same river twice – I mostly agree – \u00a0unless it’s a\u00a0Ghost River Wilderness Area. We’ve revisited the place after scouting it yesterday – this time fully geared up From Canada2016-Day06-WeatheringHeights with intentions to either climb\u00a0Wicked Wanda WI4+\u00a0 (as seen from the car yesterday, around 40min walk from the […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":669,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[38,17,26],"tags":[55,75],"class_list":["post-590","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-canada-2016","category-my-travels","category-sport","tag-climbing","tag-ice"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/samsel.org\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/590","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/samsel.org\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/samsel.org\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/samsel.org\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/samsel.org\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=590"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/samsel.org\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/590\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/samsel.org\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/669"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/samsel.org\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=590"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/samsel.org\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=590"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/samsel.org\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=590"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}