… when you want to lead GARGOYLE GROOVE DIRECT (*** 16m E1 5b). Some say the Direct finish is better and actual easier than the classic (HVS) right hand side mantle.
Yesterday seen my very first attempt on it.
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| From climbing random |
For now, the route beat me, but I’l be back. One day. We did top rope it later afternoon that day, it provides very important piece of data – got to train more… 😉
Instead I did rather wet FIFTH AVENUE * 16m HS 4b. I find the small ledges by the top very pleasant, the overhang finish, not so much 😉
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| From climbing random |
The highlight of the day however was the fact that Andrew decide to take hist first steps in leading. He started where most of us do – PARADISE LOST *** 17m VD.
Unfortunately I don’t think anyone taken photos of that, being busy watching Monika top roping that THE GREEN FOOL *** 16m E5 6b (also no photographic evidence of her getting to the top). It wasn’t easy. I don’t know how people lead it…
Andrew’s first lead came only a week after he seconded me on these 2 Sundays ago:
D ROUTE *** 24m S 4a
FRAGILE 17m HS 4b,
MOONLIGHTER 20m VS 4b (on sight)
MAHJONGG ** 12m VS 4c
LEVITATION * 14m HS 4b
And it was his maybe 5th time in the quarry. Keep going strong Andrew!
Looking down the Moonlighther – Not much protection there…
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| From climbing random |
Appeal here: next time I ‘ll decide to lead that – remind me not to..
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